A Guarda to Mougas (Pedra Rubia) about 20km

The Best Pulpo and fellow Peregrinos

Last night six Englishmen were also eating at the restaurant where we went for the best pulpo (octopus) I’ve ever had and to watch the world cup England v Wallabies game. They passed us on our first day out of Porto and we never expected to see them again.
In fact apart from a Polish woman, a Czech couple and three men from Germany, all of whom we saw that same morning, we’ve seen very few pilgrims on this coastal route. And those only at our destination. We walk alone. Anyhow some good natured rivalry developed as the evening progressed ending with them buying us a drink when the Wallabies won.

Yellow Arrow of the Camino de Santiago

The Familiar Yellow Arrow

Familiar Yellow Arrows

Being in Spain, we’re back to following the yellow arrows and this morning in the street lamplight they were easy to find. The path kept us off the roads as far as possible. When on the road it was on a bike path,  a comfortable distance from cars.

Yellow arrow of the Camino de Santiago

More Yellow Arrows

Getting the Time Wrong

I found myself carefully avoiding the many snails brought out by the rain. Nearing the edge of town it seemed very dark. Of course! With Spain an hour ahead of Portugal we couldn’t expect any daylight for at least an hour! Headlamps again!

Setting off in the Dark on the Camino de Santiago

We got the time wrong

The Weather Breaks

Three weeks of pretty much dry weather had to end sometime. The prediction for rain was spot on. They just didn’t tell us about the wind which rendered our ponchos useless. I struggled putting on my rain/wind jacket in the strong gusts. Not comfortable in the dark, and being blown this way and that, I felt like a stick insect keeping one stick and one foot firmly on the ground at all times. Stick. Step. Stick. Step. Stick.
Step.The expression ‘blew me off my feet’ had new meaning as we were buffeted by incredibly strong blasts of wind. One good thing though. The wind was mostly from behind aiding our progress and pushing us along. And we didn’t have driving rain in our faces. In places large rubbish bins and signs had been blown over.

Storms on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago

Storm damage

Eucalyptus Forest

Being Australian and knowing the danger of falling limbs from eucalyptus trees I was anxious when the path took us through a plantation which looked as if a giant was giving the trees a big shake. I told myself that as the limbs had been trimmed, there was nothing left to fall. About three metres in, a fallen limb lay across the path. So much for that theory!

Wet on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago

Wet and Wild

Feet an Ongoing Problem

Bronek has been so patient with me. Every day. He’s slowed his pace. He stops regularly to allow me to catch up and waits quietly while I take yet another picture. When our pace is too slow he gently reminds me that we need to keep going and he has kept me going when things have been tough.

I still have an issue with my feet, but have decided that there’s no point fighting it. Instead I try to manage it. A friend of mine lives with pain every day. She is an amazing example for me. My feet are nothing to what she lives with.

A fun run was in progress. The walkers first in their rain gear.

Rain on the Portuguese Camino

The weather didn’t put them off

And then the runners.

Portuguese Fun Run

Local Fun Run

As the day progressed, our shorts alternated between being soaked in the rain and dried (sort of) by the wind. A hot shower and dry clothes have never been so welcome. And the seafood is again delicious.

Wild Seas on the Portuguese Camino Coastal Route

Wild seas

Next Post: Mougas to La Ramallosa



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