Santiago to Negreira
6 June 2014
The Signage is Different Now
Forgive me if I have already told you this! We learnt early on that the symbol of the Camino (the scallop style shell) is more than a symbol. It’s a route marker. As you know there are many pilgrim routes to Santiago.
The Scallop Shell points the Way
The lines from the round edge of the shell meeting at the base symbolise these routes with the base being Santiago. And so, convention has it that as you walk to Santiago the route marker has the round edge of the shell indicating where you have come from and the base the direction you are going. Sometimes someone got it wrong and the shell faced the wrong way!
Now that we have left Santiago the shell faces the other way and we walk in the direction of the fan. But here are two shells facing in opposite directions. The route to the end of the world divides at this point. You can go left to Finesterre (and then on to Muxia) or right to Finesterre via Muxia. Unfortunately we don’t have the time to go to Muxia.
Negreira to Abeleiroas
Yesterday was a long, hard day. Supposedly 25km it was more like 28 -quite a difference when there are lots of unexpected hills and few bars for refreshments. The farming scenery was ever present which helped us on our way. I spent a few minutes watching these cows until the old woman came up to me and told me that my presence was making the cows nervous!
We had brought lunch with us-our new friends from Seattle caught us as we were about to make our boccadillo in a field somewhere in Spain!
Picked up from The Bus Stop
The arrangement was that we’d wait at the bus stop for them and then call the Casa where we were staying for a lift. Well the car arrived before we’d made the call and before Cathy and Tim. Maybe they’d called from an earlier bus stop. No-they soon appeared over the rise. Whoever had made the call would have to wait!
Abeleiroas to Cee
Soon after we set off today we saw the clouds of mist rolling in. It was again time for our wet weather gear. The biting wind blew the fine mist towards us. At times we were sheltered by pine plantations on one side and eucalypts on the other. And then we were walking into a strong head wind. Oh well, it can’t be good all the time.
Meeting Eric Again
A familiar figure walked towards us-going back to Santiago. We had not seen Eric for three weeks and thought that by now he’d be safely in front of the fire at his home in the UK. Hugs all round.
There’s The Sea
We saw the sea today. White caps in the distance. As my head was down much of the time making sure that I didn’t trip or slip on a loose rock (not a good idea so late in the piece), every time I looked up, the treacherous coastline known as Costa del Morte (coast of death) was that much closer.
And the town where we are staying, hugging the shoreline – terracotta roofs with walls in shades from white through yellow to apricot – became clearer with each step.
An Amputee is Walking
I wondered how the man with an above knee amputation who we passed earlier would fare on the rocky descent into the town.
It was lovely to observe another young man as he walked ahead of us. He was suddenly overcome by happiness at seeing the sea unfold in front of him. He waved his walking poles as if he were a drum major, punched one then the other into the air and then the wind carried his shouts of joy to our ears. I wonder how far he has walked?
Next post: Its raining again on our last day