Day 33 O’Cebreiro to Triacastela
Day 34 Triacastela to Sarria
27 May 2014
We are in Galicia
We entered Galicia two days ago. Many people start their Camino here. This means that the path gets increasingly more populated. It is not difficult to spot the newer peregrinos. They are excited about the adventure they are about to embark on, or a day or two in, are stiff and sore, wincing as they stand up.
Where is Spring?
Yesterday we left the little village of O’Cebreiro in swirling fog. It was bitterly cold and for not the first time we wondered where spring has gone. The fields were full of dandelions.
After a phone call on our arrival in the village we were taken by car to a converted farm house. It was freezing, but extra blankets and heating sorted that problem. We then learnt that we would be taken back to the village to find dinner and then brought home again.
A few weeks ago this would have bothered us. Instead, we had an afternoon nap and went with the flow.
The More Scenic Route
Today we chose the longer more scenic route. This helped us avoid most peregrinos and we were alone most of the day. The constant drizzle in the morning didn’t dampen or mood as we walked along quiet wooded paths.
Old slate walls covered in moss on one side and ivy climbing up aged trees on the other. Little birds darting in and out of the undergrowth ahead of us or chirruping in the branches above. And the continual sound of the river, never very far from the path.
Not Everyone Likes Peregrinos
As we came out into a clearing we were lucky enough to see a deer. All along our Camino we have seen signs indicating areas of hunting. Sometimes the prey are rabbits or birds but we are now in deer country.
While the Camino de Santiago is a billion dollar business for Spain not all people like what it is doing to their environment. The local people could be divided into three groups. Those who are are supportive of peregrinos (perhaps they have done the Camino themselves), those who put up with peregrinos and those who really don’t like peregrinos. Today we saw the first overt sign of dislike.
This village received no benefit from the peregrinos passing through and certainly were unhappy with their behaviour.
Stopping at the First Bar
The Camino is one way -rarely do you see someone walking back from Santiago. Pilgrims are not keen to walk any further than necessary. So rather than take a chance that there’s another bar further on and that it’s open, most walk into the first bar in the village.
This means that the first bar is often packed and another not much further on is empty. We try to go to the second bar as a matter of principle. These villages depend on peregrino business.
A Delicious Lunch
Today however there were few services on our route and we had a delicious cheese baguette while sitting on the local Cemetery wall.
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