Swimming in Lake Baikal

Baring all in Lake Baikal, Siberia

Getting naked in front of others is something I usually avoid at all costs. Exposing my sixty-year-old body intimidates me. Ten years ago, I envied the thousands who stripped off on the Opera House forecourt for photographer Spencer Tunick, wanting to join in, but too fearful to do so.

Much has changed. When walking the Camino de Santiago, a wise woman told me that “life begins at the edge of your comfort zone”. I’ve been pushing the envelope ever since.

Large picture windows looked out across a short stretch of pebbly beach to the edge of the lake from the guesthouse dining room. Small waves whooshed back and forth across the pebbles. The water was clear and as I later found out, icy cold.

Lake Baikal from the Guest house in Turka
From the Common Area

After three days on the train with only a basin in the toilet cubicle for washing, I looked forward to the Russian banya (bath) experience and possible lake swim. Towel, swimming costume, shampoo and soap in hand, I entered the banya antechamber with four similarly aged women from our small group tour.

A slatted wooden bench ran along the length of one wall in the simple narrow room. Feeling very self-conscious, I took a deep breath and following the lead of the others I undressed, hanging my clothes and swimming costume on a peg above the bench.

Banya Antechamber in Turka on Lake Baikal
Undress here

Then my heart beating fast, I walked stark-naked into the washing room.

Lined with wooden panelling, coloured plastic basins lined up on a shelf provided some colour to the room. A large blue drum filled with cold water stood in one corner. On the opposite wall, steam rose from a metal vessel full of hot water being heated up on the stove.

In a small room full of naked women, I didn’t know where to look and avoiding the eyes of my travel companions busied myself with the task at hand.  

Following instructions, I carefully filled a jug with hot water from the stove and poured it into my shallow maroon basin. Then I plunged the jug into the blue drum and mixed the cold and hot water. Soon, my water was at a comfortable temperature and I was ready for the next step.  

Before washing in the Banya in Turka on Lake Baikal
The Setup

By alternately dousing myself with water, soaping and then rinsing off with more water poured from above, the grime from the train and my inhibitions washed away.  

We all relaxed into the experience, became comfortable with our nudity and began to chat amongst ourselves. We shared shampoo, exclaimed at the cold water and rejoiced at the opportunity for a proper wash after the train.

The steam room was next. The heat hit me as I entered the small dimly lit panelled room. Three tiers of wooden seating lined two walls and a stove filled with smooth grey rocks occupied the opposite corner.  

My travel companions spread themselves out on the tiered benches. One rested a large bunch of dried birch twigs across her thighs.

Another stood up, walked to the stove, filled a jug with water and poured it onto the rocks. The water hissed as a cloud of steam filled the room.

Stove in Banya in Turka Lake Baikal
The Stove

It is customary to have a birch massage in the steam room. When my turn came, I lay face down on the bench. One of my new friends dipped the bunch of birch twigs into hot water and proceeded to ‘lash’ my back, buttocks and thighs.

A fragrant aroma filled the steamy room, and I felt progressively more relaxed.  

After visiting the steam room, Lake Baikal, only 20 metres or so from the guesthouse banya was the ideal location to cool off.

Leaving my swimming costume hanging on the peg in the antechamber, I stepped unclothed outside, walking self-consciously across the stepping stone path to the edge of the lake. I couldn’t remember if I had ever as an adult been naked outdoors.

Swimming naked in Lake Baikal at Turka
Stepping stones to Lake Baikal

Apart from Kzenia our female tour guide and Natalia the guesthouse cook looking on through the dining room window, there was no one around. Natalia called out “No, No, No”. I hesitated and started to turn back. Perhaps swimming naked in Lake Baikal wasn’t allowed.  

Then Natalia gesticulated urgently with both hands pushing towards the lake. This time I heard correctly “Go, Go, Go” and I continued on gesturing for the other women to follow me.

Dipping my toe into the water, I confirmed my fears. It was very cold. The only way to do this was quickly. I dived head first into the clear icy water emerging squealing and gasping for air.

With some encouragement the others followed, all exclaiming how exhilarating it was after the heat of the steam room. We ducked underwater and floated on our backs relishing the experience. When the cold became too much, exhilarated we picked our way back across the pebbles back to the banya. 

Ksenia smiled when we returned to the wash room for a final rinse. Of all her tour groups ours was the first to swim in Lake Baikal in the nude. For my part, if Spencer Tunick ever returns to Australia to photograph another nude gathering, I won’t hesitate to be there. 

Interested in my stories from Russia? You may enjoy reading my guide to the Trans-Mongolian Railway. You can access it here. And here‘s something about the Gulags or Labour Camps.


  1. Our tour group swam together in the lake but only 1 woman went naked. The others men and women went in the lake in swimmers, after the sauna.

    1. Author

      Men and women in our group had the banya separately so it was only a group of women swimming. A wonderful experience that I won’t forget.

  2. Hi Joanne
    You do get to some amazing places! When was this and did Bronek do the same?
    For the last month I have been starting my days with a cold shower and it is exhilarating! Not sure that I could do the freezing water though !
    I imagine you are missing your overseas travel as much as we are. ?

    1. Author

      Hi Philip, I could say the same about you! Bronek did swim too – the men and women had different sessions- and he also bared all. A cold shower? That’s just as challenging. Jo

  3. Loved reading about your total exposure experience Jo. So glad that you enjoyed it. It sounds wonderful. When my husband and i were on the Greek Islands in 2015 we swam naked at some of the beaches where you could bare all. Although our experience was warmer than yours as we soaked up the sunshine, and the sea wasn’t freezing like your lake. If I ever travel there I will be sure to follow your lead. Thank you for sharing 🙂

  4. They say it takes a third type of courage to step out of your comfort zone, good for you Jo and thank you for another great post.

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