Duke Kahanamoku commemorative statue in Freshwater

Freshwater: A day walk in a Sydney suburb

From where I live, it takes me two hours to reach Freshwater. But, a blog about suburban Sydney must include this and other beachside suburbs. To make the journey more pleasurable, I’ll get the ferry to Manly and walk through Manly (touristy and not a high priority for me) to Freshwater. Apart from Freshwater Beach, there is a heritage trail there that that I’m keen to explore.

Ferry to Manly

As the ferry passes Garden Island, I reminisce about one of my first suburban discoveries. I alighted at Garden Island and explored the museum and enjoyed the stunning views.

In Manly I look for somewhere for breakfast. Café Moustache is a little hole in the wall with a few small tables in an arcade. When my generous bowl of muesli, yoghurt and honey with fruit arrives I am pleased I stopped here. The meal is beautifully presented and delicious.

The Wormhole

Entrance to the Wormhole

The Wormhole

The Freshwater opening

Manly Esplanade

The path along the beach is relatively busy for a weekday.  A group of mums with babies in strollers are finishing off an exercise class. Dog walkers stop and greet each other. Tourists pose for photographs or remove their shoes and set off across the sand to test the water.

The Wormnhole

At the northern end of the beach, I cross the sand and head for the swimming pool. One hardy person is swimming laps. A young woman in exercise gear poses for photographs. Beyond the pool, I clamber over rocks, aiming for the pink heart painted on the rock face at the end of the headland. The heart marks the entrance to a ‘secret’ tunnel.

I am pleased to be wearing sturdy shoes. The wet rocks are slippery in places and the ‘beware of rockfalls’ signs are rather disconcerting. I don’t think I would attempt this at high tide. There, just as described, and to the left of the heart is the tunnel entrance.

The Wormhole or Queenscliff Tunnel as it is called, was cut into the rock by local fishermen in 1908. A colourful door hanging has been painted over the opening. Light reflects on the wet walls and floor at the Freshwater end of the tunnel. The surface is uneven surface and I walk carefully to the other side where, the expansive view of the ocean is mine to enjoy.

I listen to the sound of the crashing waves and inspect the beautifully weathered sandstone before retracing my steps rather than attempting to walk on to Freshwater via the rocks. A woman and her two children are making their way to the tunnel. It is not so secret after all.

Harbord or Freshwater Beach

It is no longer called Harbord

Freshwater Beach House

Squeezed between two developments

Freshwater or Harbord?

Beyond the swimming pool, I climb the stairs to Freshwater. I was here a few years ago when I walked the 50km Coastrek. Today is rather more relaxed. A sign carved into a rock indicates the way to Harbord, evidence that Freshwater was once known as Harbord.

The suburb was first called Freshwater and the local public school, built in 1912, was Freshwater Public. In 1923 after a strong community push, the suburb became Harbord after the Harbord Estate. In 2008 after a public consultation and vote it reverted to the original name of Freshwater.

Harbord Diggers

Harbord Diggers

Freshwater View Reserve

Freshwater View Reserve

Freshwater View Reserve

I turn right into Pavilion Street, towards Freshwater View Reserve. The sandstone archway leads me into a beautiful garden surrounded by a beautiful high sandstone wall. The manicured lawns and magnificent view of Freshwater beach and beyond make this a very special place. It reminds me of The Bible Garden that I discovered when exploring Palm Beach, tucked away as it is between two houses.

Seals and Cormorants

I pause to take in the view before returning to Crown Road, turning into Bridge Road and descending the steps and a pedestrian pathway to the beach. It is a pleasant walk along the beach to the rock pool where, in winter, the occasional New Zealand seal bakes in the sun on the surrounding rocks. There is no seal today but a large pied cormorant is sunning itself on a nearby rock

In McKillop Park, near Freshwater Beach

Remembering Champions

A Freshwater Beach House

A surfing suburb

Surfing Suburb

Wetsuits are drying over balconies, and surfboards lean against walls. This is a suburb of surfers. After climbing the stairs to Evans Street, I turn right and walk past the Harbord Diggers (that name again).

In McKillop park I find the commemorative statue of Duke Kahanamoku (Hawaiian Olympic Swimmer) demonstrating surfing on his long board in Freshwater in 1915. His visit to Australia helped to popularise surfing in Australia. I read about Duke doing a similar demonstration in North Cronulla when I explored that suburb.

My route takes me back through a car park parallel to the beach. This area is the first World Surfing Reserve in Australia. I walk along the Life Member Avenue to The Freshwater Surf Lifesaving Club. Apparently, Duke’s board and other memorabilia are in the heritage room here, but I can’t see how to access it.

Letter box

Number 29

Harbord Beach Hotel

Harbord Beach Hotel

Heritage and Architecture

The next stop on my map is a fine example of a federation style weatherboard building. Today the heritage building is home to the two hatted Pilu Restaurant. Further on is the Harbord Beach Hotel, with its interwar architecture and Californian bungalow influence.

The route takes me past a shopping village. Similar to many suburbs of Sydney, I get the feeling that this part of the walk is going to be a disappointment. The next two points of interest on the map are underwhelming but then I get inspired again.

Soldiers Avenue of Honour

One of the last Avenue’s of Honour in Greater Sydney

ANZAC Street Art

Purposeful Street Art

Soldiers Avenue

Brushboxes line Soldiers Avenue, planted to commemorate local residents who died in WWll. The remaining trees are heritage listed. I can only find one of the two remaining original tree guards, but laminated histories and photographs of local people who fought and died in the service of our country are pinned to trees. At the end of the street a marble wall identifies the street as one of the last remaining Soldiers Avenue of Honour in Greater Sydney.

Wall of Remembrance

In nearby Jacka Park, children from the local school practice throwing and catching. In a corner is the Wall of Remembrance with rosemary bushes planted in a row on either side of the obelisk.

Manly surf shop

Manly Surf Shop

Street Art in Freshwater

Dice?

Suggestions for you

I make my way back to the beach and on to Manly. Apart from interesting street art, and the soothing sounds of the ocean waves, there is nothing more of note. I don’t get to the beach often enough and enjoyed my time today. But, if you decide to go to Freshwater, apart from a quick side trip to Soldier’s Avenue, I suggest you investigate the tunnel, find Dukes statue and enjoy a walk along the beach.

Street Art near Freshwater Beach

Surfs Up

Surfing Freshwater Beach

This is the life

Street Art near Freshwater Beach

Lets go

If you liked this post, you may also like to walk through

Surry Hills               Parramatta              Summer Hill

Next Stop: Paddington

Useful information:

Click here to plan your trip.

This is the map I vaguely followed.

And a map to assist you: (You can download it here)

(NOTE that the time indicated on the map does not allow for any stops. I take an average of 4-5 hours when I explore):

Freshwater Walk Map

Comments

  1. Certainly looks like a place worth investigating! Think children would love the tunnel!

  2. Another interesting walk – I walked just the coastal part of this a couple of weeks ago as I continued my Coastal walk from Barrenjoey to Crunulla .. now at Manly Wharf…

    1. Author

      Thank you Albert. I did the Coastrek (50km) from Palm Beach to Balmoral a few years ago. In one day it was hard going. A more leisurely pace is certainly preferable. Did you know about the wormhole? I’m looking forward to reading about your walk. Joanne

  3. I live much closer to Freshwater than you. You have inspired me to go exploring there next time I have some time. What a shame the name was changed from Harbord. I thought it still was called Harbord, as a kind of alternative or something. My much-loved grandmother’s family came from Harbord and she had some wonderful stories of life there in the early part of the 20th Century. It will always be Harbord to me.

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